Monday, 14 July 2014

Malaysia - Singapore - Java

The world cup is over, ramadan has started and we've changed our location several times in between. We have arrived at Bali for the moment, where we are currently trying to extend our visa to 60 days (at the airport you only get 30 days) and we can do some blog update.

Kuala Lumpur is a "huge shopping mall city", so this definitely a highlight where you can get everything you need and much more you'll never need (there is one shopping mall which even has a fully grown roller-coaster inside!) and the other big thing is the Petronas Towers. It is amazing to see them during the day, but it's even better if you see them at night! The Petronas Twin Tower tour is ok, but rather expensive for just having a look around... Another place that can be visited is a bird park where you can watch a lot of birds from all over the world (including emu and ostrich from Australia) but no penguins (it's about 30 degrees here, so not a penguin climate).

Twin Towers
Bird park
Twin towers @ night
After some days in KL, we took a bus to the cosy town of Melakka (another shopping mall town) which also has some historic sites and and nice old town. Since it is close to the sea, you get fresh sea food and they offer a cruise on the small river as well (pretty touristic but nice thought). And, how could it be different, they also have some huge shopping malls which attracts all the locals since they are air conditioned ;-) (shopping is btw. the national sport of Malaysia I think...). A special thing is the rickshaws they have in Melakka, they are very colourful and a must!

Mosque in Melakka
Smurph Rickshaw
River Cruise
So, after 2 days, we took another bus to Singapore. Singapore custom control is a funny thing. Since we entered Singapore from Malaysia, they have different restrictions on what you have to declare on customs. We had a bottle of wine (bought in Nepal with the leftover money) with us, but we did not think of this being a problem... well, it is! Since we did not declare it, it would have been "smuggling of goods" which normally would have costed a fine of 10 times the fee of the VAT tax. So, we should have paid about 95 S$ for a bottle of wine which costed about 20 US$ ...?! Luckily, we could convince them that we did not know this rule, so we got away with a warning, but we had to pay the 9.50 S$ fee VAT... welcome to Singapore!
The city is similar to KL, but it has a F1 track and it has a harbour area which is amazing (and yes, it also has huge and expensive shopping centres!). After the devastating Swiss game in the night (3 am - 5 am) and a short night, we visited some sights in town including the waterfront (amazing) and due to our arrival, the armed forces held a parade (just for us!), including helicopters and a firework! Since it is a very international city, food is great and we spent our last dinner in a Brazilian restaurant (called: carnivore; serving meat!) before we took of to Yogyakarta (Indonesia).

Singapore @ night
Fireworks
Singapore sunset
Parade
This time, the migration and the custom went smoothly, so we could enter Indonesia and we headed to our home stay with a taxi. In comparison to KL and Singapore, Indonesia is completely different, especially the traffic with all the motor bikes! We stayed in a house close to the Kraton (Palace of the sultan) from where we could easily walk to all places of interest. Besides the Kraton, we visited a puppet factory (unplanned). Some guy "offered" to show us the way to the entrance of the Kraton but since it was "too early" he showed us firstly the puppet factory (and disappeared after!). After seeing the process, we were also politely asked if we wanted to buy something (we didn't!) and we searched the entrance ourselves after :-) The palace is just opened in the morning and you can also visit just some parts since the sultan still lives in there. So, it was a rather short visit but nice. The food in Yogyakarta is good and there is a variety you can choose from and there is plenty of "warungs" where you can eat good and cheap! And they have colourful rickshaws as well, as you can see it on the pictures!

Rickshaw in Yogya
Puppets
Kraton dragon
The "big thing" in Yogyakarta is definitely the two temples of Borobudur and Prambanan (Buddhist and Hindu temple). So we got up very early one day for the sunrise tour to Borobudur... It was a nice sunrise, but you don't see much of the temple itself since it is quite far away. After we left the view point (as all the other western tourists did) we headed to Borobudur itself (which costs 25 USD per person!). The temple is huge and so is the amount of people visiting it (it looks like hordes are fighting their way into a castle). Furthermore, there is plenty of school groups in Borobudur which, apparently, haven't seen western people in real live, so you feel a bit like a pop star! We were asked about 50 times for pictures, not counting the pictures being taken silently, and you don't have time to really appreciate the temple (especially on the top of it). Somehow, they are attracted to our "white" skin and you can see this also in the supermarkets, where you can buy a lot of creams for "a whiter skin", it's even in sunscreen (and we try to get brown).

Sunrise view to Borobudur
Sarong for the visit 
Stupa on top
Picture please!
Borobudur temple
The day after, we visited the other temple Prambanan in the afternoon. It is pretty amazing when you see the huge temples built here and it was a relaxed visit (most likely because we had a local guide with us). Unfortunately, the weather was not the best (a bit cloudy) so the sunset was not good, but it was worth a visit. Especially, besides the main temples, you can visit some more but you have to walk a bit. Therefore, you are basically alone once you arrive at the other temples :-) (nobody asking for "Picture???")

Prambanan
Side temple in Prambanan
We were also able to watch the third swiss game in Yogya before we left for Solo, a town just about an hour away from Yogya. According to the guide books, there should be some more temples and a steam train... once we arrived, we asked in the hotel about the train. The answer: Which train? ... so we went to the tourist information (which was closed) and we tried another hotel for more information about the steam train. Answer: "Which train???" So we had to wait for the next day when we figured out, that the steam train is not running any more (only on request) but we could visit the temples in the country side of Solo and a waterfall with a lot of monkeys to see. Besides temples and trains, we also visited a dance theatre (we did not understand a word but it was funny anyway, especially the part where the orchestra gets food delivered from the warung outside!).

Foggy temple close to Solo
Fertility temple in Solo
Monkey
Theatre in Solo
From Solo, we headed east and the ramadan started. In the guidebooks, it's written that it will be very difficult to find food during the day, but this is definitely not true in east Java! We had no problems and even with the bus from Solo to Malang we stopped for lunch... and in Malang it was neither a problem (luckily). The only thing we noticed was in one restaurant where they served "thousands of different tea's during ramadan" which means that you get your beer in a tea cup instead of a glass :-) who cares! Well, and besides eating and drinking, you can also visit some things in Malang. They have a small bird and small animal market (birds, rabbits, cats, dogs and other animals in very small, sad cages) a small old town and a tour that EVERY tourist does: the Bromo. We haven't seen many other western tourists in Yogya or Solo and even in Malang, you don't see many, but once you arrive at the sunrise view point for Bromo, they all show up! It feels like a million tourists are keen on seeing this sunrise and after it, you head back to your car and into the crater to be dragged to the next tourist attraction, a horse ride to the staircase to the top of Bromo. Fortunately, we did not have to take the horse ride so we could walk there and have a look a the enormous crater and the surrounding (and be aware that the nice crater you see is NOT Bromo cone). Except that there were too many tourists, it was a nice view up there.

Sunrise view to Bromo
In the crater
Not Bromo but nice though
From Malang, after the game between Switzerland and Argentina :-( we went to our last stop on Java (yes, Java is also an island!) to visit the sulfur workers on Mount Ijen. It is a bit similar to Bromo since almost all the tourists are doing this tour, you see a lot of western people hiking up the slope to the crater and you see also a lot of people selling stuff up there and on the way. But the view on top was definitely worth the early start and the way up to the crater! And as soon as you walk away from the main path, there is no others any more and you can enjoy the views without being asked: "Buy?? Yes?" or "Very cheap price" :-)

Ijen crater lake
Ijen crater
Sulphur worker
Another sulphur worker
Finally, we left Java by ferry to move on to Bali. We have seen some very nice places, but there is also some drawbacks, especially the people staring at you, the ubiquitous questions like: "Taxi, yes??", "Buy, yes??" or even shorter just "Yeeees???" and the ton's of pictures you are requested to pose for. But now, on Bali, this should change a bit since they should be used more to western people.

Fort in Melakka
Leguan visiting Melakka
French fries in Melakka
The hordes are entering Borobudur
Buddha statue
Guardian at temple in Solo
Monkeys
Statue close to Solo
Sulphur workers at work
Singapore flyer
Bird park KL
KL
Melakka

Monday, 16 June 2014

Between times: Out of monsoon, ready for ramadan

The World Championship has started and we were able to watch some of the games now in Kuala Lumpur (including the Swiss game!) and we noticed that it's about time for another update for our blog!

We stayed some days in Kathmandu after our safari in the Bardia National park to prepare our next trek before the monsoon was expected to kick in. During this time, we visited the garden of dreams in Kathmandu which is an oasis of silence right at the corner of busy Thamel.
Garden of Dreams
We decided to go to the Langtang valley for a popular trek to the Langtang mountains and the Gosaikunda lakes (sacred lakes for the Hindus, but more about this later). The road to the trail head is not a motorway, it takes about 7 hours for 120 km; but there is quite a few stops due to police check posts and buying the entrance tickets for the Langtang national park. Next morning, we started our hike up the valley and after two days, we've already climbed over 2'000 m and the scenery changed from an narrow valley with forest to a wider one with a great view to the surrounding mountains.

Langtang Valley
On day 3, we arrived in Kyanjin Gompa where we enjoyed the surroundings and visited the local cheese factory (which was introduced in the 1950's by a Swiss guy) where they produce tasty yak cheese. Besides us, there was also a "Nepali Girl Group" shooting their "music videos" in the mountains. Well, they definitely have to work on their performance if they want to become famous in Nepal... :-) In Kyanjin Gompa, we wanted to climb one of the mountains close to the village next day, but the weather changed unfortunately and it was snowing the whole day; so instead of hiking, we were sitting in the living room, preparing our own "Raclette with yak cheese" on the stove :-) very yummy!

Nepali girl group
Panoramic view of Langtag valley
Raclette
Glacier View
Summit reached
And after our unplanned rest day, we hiked up one of the mountains next morning, but the weather was not the best this day either, so we did not have a perfect view this time. So we left the village and headed back the same way we came up, before we turned into an other valley to visit the Gosaikunda lakes. The weather changed again and it was now very sunny and warm (which is not the best if you climb about 1'500 m altitude in one day). But once we reached the tree line, the views were great. We could see Langtang Lingun mountains, Ganesh Himal mountains, the Manaslu, some peaks of Anapurna and far away, the summit of Dhaulagiri. Just perfect! And when we arrived at the lakes, it stayed sunny the whole day which was a great experience as well.
Himalaya Panorama
Ganesh Himal mountains
Gosaikunda lakes
Gosaikunda lakes
Pilgrims on their way
The funny thing on this way was, that it was a week where a lot of pilgrims (Nepali / Indians) were hiking to the lakes as well. Therefore, most of the tea houses were quite full and once one of the pilgrims wakes up in the morning (about 04.00 am) they start talking to each other so that all other will wake up around this time. And they don't acclimatize properly (they walk all day long), so you see quite a few sick nepali in the tea houses... but for them it seems to be a very spiritual experience at those lakes.

Host of tea house
Monk at Gosaikunda lakes
Pilgrim on his way
So, after the descend from the lakes, we hopped on the local bus again to drive back to Kathmandu. One interesting thing about the local bus is the stop at about 10.00 am which is the "lunch break" where the local people have their lunch (always Dhal Bat!). We didn't (although it looked and smelled good but it was way too early for us). And once back in Kathmandu, we were very keen on some different food than then things you get in the mountains, so it was Pizza (good one!) and fresh salad (amazing after 2 weeks without it)!
Our last stop in Nepal was the trip to Pokhara, a laid back town on the shore of a lake, close to Anapurna. But this time, we did not go with the local bus that stops quite frequently, we took a so called "tourist bus" that has more comfort (i.e. air conditioning). In Pokhara, we were greeted by about 1'000 taxi drivers that all wanted us to drive with them or at least go to the hotel they recommend... a bit annoying, so we walked away and took another taxi driver :-) since it started to rain...
Pokhara is a nice town, with good restaurants and it would have a great view to the mountains, but since the monsoon was close, most of the time we couldn't see them at all, but there is some others things to do in Pokhara. The international mountaineering Museum is definitely worth to be visited and if you feel like hiking, you can cross the lake with a small boat and hike up to the world peace pagoda which offers a good view over the valley and to the mountains.

Temple in Pokhara
World peace pagoda
So we spent some relaxing days before heading back to Kathmandu, to prepare for our flight to Kuala Lumpur once more (goodbye monsoon rain). In Kuala Lumpur, we are planning to spend some days (to be able to watch football as well) before we go south, visit Singapore and then move on to Java and Bali (our biggest concern is the Ramadan starting soon and both, Malaysia and Indonesia are rather strict on that) so we try to spend much of this time in Bali (with the Hindus)...

Woman carrying firewood
People carrying building material
Inside of a temple
Well deserved beer at the Gosaikunda lakes
On our way up to the lakes
Langtang lirung mountains
Panorama view